Hurricane
Keep Wind and Water Out
A Guide to High Wind Protection The 2004 hurricane season
provided painful lessons in the importance of preparing for such
destructive storms. Perhaps the most important of all is the need to
properly protect your home sooner than later. This will allow you to
focus on other important actions when a hurricane approaches,
including gathering supplies and heeding evacuation orders.
The first step is to decide what level of protection you want and
can afford – especially for doors and windows. Then you can
permanently install any hardware that should be in place before
storms start brewing. When a storm threatens, you can quickly
install the protection and move on to other tasks and actions.
Protecting Windows
The
highest level of protection normally available for windows is
professionally produced shutters that meet the Dade County standards
for opening protection. These standards require that the product be
able to resist the impact of a 9 lb 2x4 traveling at 34 m.p.h.
without penetration of the shutter, and if installed according to
the manufacturer’s recommendations, not break the glass behind the
shutter.
This level of protection can also be achieved for small to medium
sized windows by making the shutter of out a ¼ inch polycarbonate
sheet. This has the added benefit of providing a transparent shutter
that will allow light in if the power goes out. The disadvantage is
that the cost of polycarbonate material has continued to climb as
oil prices have gone up. (A 4' x 8' sheet currently costs just under
$200.) If you are making and installing your own shutters, you may
want to consider this for your windows that allow the most daylight
into living areas.
It
takes about a ¾ " thick piece of plywood to provide close to the
same protection as the Dade County approved products, and that will
make for a very heavy shutter. You can of course use thinner plywood
(and IBHS recommends plywood over oriented strand board, or OSB,
because it takes 30% thicker OSB to equal the impact resistance of
plywood.) Recognize that the resistance to penetration by windborne
debris is reduced in direct proportion to the thickness of the
plywood. In other words, a 3/8 " thick plywood shutter would be only
about half as effective in resisting penetration as a ¾" plywood
shutter. IBHS recommends 5/8" thick plywood as a minimum unless you
are having problems with handling the weight of the shutter.
Some layer of plywood will always be better than not protecting
your window, as long as it remains in place. And even the thinner
sheets will help resist the most common wind borne debris such as
small branches and shingles.
If you live in a community with tile roofs, IBHS strongly
recommends you seriously consider Dade County approved shutter
products for your windows. Our 2004 post-hurricane damage
assessments noted considerable damage caused by wind-borne debris
from roof tiles set with mortar.
Installing Plywood Shutters
If you are going to make and install your own shutters, take the
time to pre-install the anchorage hardware and prepare your shutter
materials now, before a storm threatens. Pick out and purchase the
material you want to use and cut it to the appropriate size for the
type of installation you select. There are a lot of effective ways
to install shutters and many more that are not.
While you can nail plywood shutters as a last resort just before
a storm strikes, repeatedly putting them up and taking them down
will damage the area around your windows and doors, and ultimately
affect anchorage quality.
Plywood
is stronger in the direction parallel to the grain. So you can take
advantage of the panel's inherent strength and place fasteners only
on the sides perpendicular to the grain (for example, top and bottom
as shown), or along the sides if the grain runs that way.
For installations on wood frame walls, you can order stainless
steel studs that have wood threads on one end and machine threads on
the other. Search under hanger bolts for the types of hardware you
need. Select stainless steel anchor bolts for permanent masonry
installations.
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Click the map to below to
find the wind speed that applies to your home. Refer to the chart
below for fastener and spacing recommendations.
Stainless steel
sleeve anchor for hollow or solid masonry (2a).
Wood Frame Construction:
1a) Use 1/4" diameter stainless steel hanger bolts at 16"
O.C. (16" apart) with a minimum embedment depth of 2.0" into
the wood framing within the wall.
1b) Use 1/4" diameter stainless steel hanger bolts at 12"
O.C. (12" apart) with a minimum embedment depth of 2.0" into
the wood framing within the wall.
Concrete Block Construction:
2a) Use 3/8" diameter stainless steel sleeve anchors at 16"
O.C. (16" apart).
2b) Use 3/8" acrylic or epoxy-set stainless steel threaded
rods with stainless steel screen inserts at 16" O.C. (16"
apart).
2c) Use 3/8" acrylic or epoxy-set stainless steel umbrella
inserts at 16" O.C. (16" apart).
2d) Use 3/8" acrylic or epoxy-set stainless steel threaded
rod with a minimum embedment of 3.5" into the block (solid
or grouted block.) |
Protecting Doors
All doors should have three hinges and a dead-bolt lock with a
minimum 1" bolt throw length. Metal or solid wood doors may
withstand hurricane pressures and wind-blown debris, but if you have
double entry doors (French doors), doors with glass or hollow-core
doors, you may want to shutter them.
For double entry doors, add barrel bolt restraints to the
inactive door to help keep them from bursting open during a storm.
Make sure the bolts connect through the door header and through the
threshold into the subfloor.
Garage Doors
Because of their width, double-wide garage doors are more
susceptible to wind damage than single doors. The wind may buckle
the door, force it out of the roller track, or the track could be
vulnerable to the pressure, especially if it is light weight or the
fasteners don’t penetrate the wall deep enough. Wind coming into
your home through an opening this large poses grave problems for the
rest of your home – especially your roof.
Consider installing a garage door that is hurricane resistant
(tested and approved for your area), or shutter the garage door
opening with a wind pressure and impact rated system appropriate for
your area. Be sure to check if there are any other code requirements
for garage doors where you live.
Garage
door retailers may have a wind retrofit kit specifically made for
your door. If the manufacturer does not make a system for your door,
you can purchase a generic garage door retrofit kit. There is at
least one manufacturer of a vertical bracing kit that has Florida
Building Code approval. However, keep in mind that these retrofit
kits do not provide any additional protection from flying debris.
Most doors that are not hurricane rated will not.
If
you decide to reinforce your double-wide garage door, do so at its
weakest points. Install horizontal and/or vertical bracing onto each
panel, using wood or light gauge metal girds bolted to the door
mullions (vertical member that forms a division between units of a
window, door, or screen.) Heavier hinges and stronger end and
vertical center supports may be required.
If
you do anything that adds weight to your garage door, call a
professional to make sure the door is balanced. The springs will
probably need adjusting. Note: Since the springs are dangerous,
only a professional should adjust them.
Additional Steps to Consider
| Shutter and seal gable end vents to
prevent wind driven rain from entering attic space. |
| Use a high quality silicone caulk around
outside wall openings such as clothes dryer, kitchen or bathroom
vents, outdoor electrical outlets and locations where cables or
pipes go through the wall. Just before a storm, close dryer and
bathroom vents with duct tape (but remove it after a storm,
before using the vents.) |
| Consider cutting wall screens in pool
enclosures just before the storm hits, if you are still there
and your property is located near the landfall position. This
may save the aluminum enclosure. |
|